Ultimate Ultar (7388m) and the Japanese Tragedy- I

 

(The article is based upon Nazir Sabir’s Lecture Pilgrimage to Higher Heavens  delivered in  Feb 2016 at Lahore)

I belong to small town of Karimabad (Baltit) located in 160 km long beautiful valley of Hunza also called as Kanjut. The valley is famous for the natural beauty as well as long life span of the people and gained significant media attention in past including Time and the Life magazine.

Photo Courtesy:  http://www.oldlife.net (Life Magazine,Jan 1950 )

Within this very small valley various languages are spoken including Burushaski, Wakhi and Shina. Hunza valley lies in the neighborhood of Rakaposhi and the mysterious Ultar Peak. Places near Hunza include Attabad Lake, Passu Glacier and bubuliomoting / lady finger, a unique rock spire.

In Hunza valley Yaks are used to carry 70-80 Kg weight up to 6500m. Hunza have fifty or more different types and tastes of apricots. In mountaineering history a man from a local Hunza village rescued the legendry German mountaineer Hermann Buhl during his one of expeditions and is regarded as a hero of Hunza.

Interestingly not all people living near mountains are passionate about mountains. In few cases locals might even curse mountains for imparting hardships of life upon them. A frequently asked question from the mountaineers is “Why to climb”. The answer is ambiguous.

“Going back to mountains is sort of addiction rooted deeply in the desire for taking risks. Car racing is also risky but in climbing you remain under the shadow of risk for much longer duration. In mountaineering not all are calculated risks sometimes you take educated guesses and at other times you are pushed to take blind risks. Most importantly, mountains are source of spiritual strengths, as one gets closer to mountains somehow they pull and even touch your soul.”

Ultar II PakPeak (7388m) also called as Death Peak/ Bojohagur Duanasir II is a mysterious peak that overshadows the Hunza valley and it is the source of water for the Hunza people. It has been climbed once only in 1996. Now in Karimabad in the neighborhood of Ultar lies the Hasegawa Memorial Public School that hints a tragic story.

 

Hasegawa Memorial Public School, Karimabad, Hunza

In October 1991,Nazir Sabir was part of climbing attempt of Ultar along with Hasegawa and Hoshino from Japan. He experienced a  near death experience during the climb. Enroute to summit Sabir was in camp and another was about 6m away. He could not sleep due to freezing nose and heard sound of someone walking with crampons. At about 1 am he heard sound of eight /nine year old boy calling  Arif……..Arif…….The next morning Nazir’s speed was slow and he  was lagging behind others due to a sleepless and disturbed night. It was during this slow climb that almost at altitude of about 5,350 m when Hasegawa while leading from front was swept away by a massive avalanche. For Nazir Sabir it was shocking to see someone experienced like Hasegawa wiped away in seconds. Later he attributed his own narrow escape to previous night’s mysterious “Arif” sound that kept him awake, became reason for his slow discourse thus saving him from the massive avalanche. In local tradition, Arif is a name associated with spirituality and sanity.

After the incident a weeklong initiative to recover Hasegawa body was spearheaded by his the courageous wife. He was buried in the lap of the mountain. as per his will. Hasegawa’s wife died five years later in 1996 on Mount Fuji. According to Nazir Sabir the bitter experience left unpleasant memories and he spat on Ultar with the resolve to never return. A near death incident on Ultar however revealed that once death is too near the whole system gets reboot and the complete film of life flashes in front of eyes. For Nazir Sabir  final takeaway from the Ultar peak was

ایک جان کے لئے آدمی کتنی جان لگاتا ہے
(For one’s life sake,one fights till end)

Ultar was finally summited five years later by Yamazaki and Matsuoka from Japan in July 1996.However in tragic sequence of events Yamakazi died while on the descent  of Ultar and Matsuoka died one year later on the nearby Bubuliomoting.
The details are covered here Ultimate Ultar II (7388m) and the Japanese Tragedy- II

The Ultimate Ultar has never been climbed again.

Final Resting place of Hasegawa, near base camp of  Ultar Peak

 

Ultimate Ultar (7388m) and the Japanese Tragedy- II

( The Story of First Successful  Ultar II Ascent and the tragedy in 1996 By  Noboru )

Akito Yamazaki (28) and Kiyoshi Matsuoka (24),the Ultar ll climbing team from Tokai Branch of the Japanese Alpine Club, stood on top of Ultar ll(7,388 m) at 6・45 A.M. on July 11 1996.

Leaving Japan on June 3, and arriving in Islamabad on the same day, they started making preparations for their expedition. On June 10 and 11, they traveled by land from Islamabad to Aliabad, Hunza, the starting point of their expedition. From June 14 until June 21, they stayed in the Hassanabad Glacier area, which is located to the west of Ultar I and from where the sharp ridge of Shispare (7,611 m) can also be seen. From this location, Yamazaki and Matsuoka intended to physically prepare themselves for the high altitude climb. Bad weather, however, kept them from doing as much training as they had hoped.

On June 22, they climbed down to Aliabad in order to make a reconnaissance of the southeast pillar through Nagar Hill, which commands a good view of Ultar ll. They also reconnoitered Mr. Hasegawa’s Ultar Glacier route. Studying these two routes carefully, they decided to take the latter route, even though they had planned on taking the former, since they thought they would have a better chance of successful ascent to the summit.

On June 25, they left Karimabad and set up Base Camp at Ultar Glacier (3,100 m), and on the following day, Advance Base Camp at 4,500 m. On June 29, they ascended, fixing eight 50-meter ropes at dangerous spots, while reconnoitering the route on the way.

On July 2, they moved up to Advance Base Camp and their Ultar ll climb started.

On July 3, Yamazaki and Matsuoka left Advance Base at 2・00 a.m. Taking advantage of the early morning hours, there was hardly any danger of falling rocks or avalanches as they passed a big valley runse. At 8・00 P.M., they stopped and camped at 5,200 m. There, they deposited food for one day and a can of gas to be used on their way back. They had fixed eight 50-meter ropes before they reached this point, and they had only one 50-meter rope left for the rest of the climb. At 11・00 P.M., in the moonlight, they started on their climb on the rocks and ice. They safely passed the 5,350 m point, where an avalanche had hit Mr. Hasegawa 5 years before. At 9・00 a.m. on the following day, they reached the 5,500 meter point, and being afraid of causing avalanches and falling rocks by moving during the day, they stayed there.

At 8:00 p.m., starting again in the moonlight, they got to the edge of a hanging glacier which continued for 300 meters. Crossing one crevasse after another, crawling beneath overhanging rocks, they gradually moved up the glacier However, unable to go through the dangerous area by 4:00 p.m., they decided to set up a tent inside a safe crevasse at the altitude of 5,800 meters.

On July 7, at 4:00 a.m., they left this spot and managed to get over the hanging glacier. They stayed on the snow on Snow Peak (6,000 m) that night.

Starting at 4・00 a.m. on July 8, they advanced on the ridge of ice and rocks, sometimes losing their way, sometimes thinking of retreating. They came to a spot where they feared it impossible to climb as they had already used up all of their ropes. Luckily at that point, however, they happened to find a find a fixed rope left there by previous climbers. Using it, they got down to the runse, and at 8:00 p.m., they again climbed up to the ridge, which was the rocky base (6,300 m) in the foreground of Head Wall leading to the summit. They had proceeded staccato all the way up there. They stayed overnight in the tent.

On July 9, at 4:00 a.m., they began to climb on the rocks of Head Wall. On the lower slope, they managed to go up on the snow walls, but they came to a deadlock at 6,600 meters. At 8:00 p.m., they decided to bivouac there.

On July 10, at 4:00 a.m., they started, though without any climbing equipment to be used to attack the sharp slabs and cracks. Then they finally went through the wall at around 8:00 p.m., it got dark and they were forced to bivouac again at the altitude of 7,000 meters. At this point, they had only a small amount of food and fuel left, but both Yamazaki and Matsuoka were quite sure that summit of Ultar ll was not far beyond this point.

On July 11, at 4:00 a.m., they started their ascent. Since they had decided to retreat if they failed to reach the summit on this day, they carried nothing with them. They advanced with continuous steps along the 30 degree ridge up to the foot of a big peak, which was likely the one called Junction Peak by Mr. Hasegawa. After taking a short rest and exchanging words of encouragement to one another, they went on, finally reaching the summit of Ultar ll(7,388 m). There they stood at 6:45 a.m. on July 11. It was a lucky mistake for them to have taken the left-side route of Head Wall.

From the top of Ultar ll, where they stayed for less than 10 minutes due to the strong wind and piercing cold, Akito Yamazaki and Kiyoshi Matsuoka witnessed the beautiful peaks of Rakaposhi (7,788 m) and Dilan (7,257 m) to the south ; snowy Ultar I (7,329 m) and Shispare to the north ; and the rock tower of Lady’s Finger far below their eyes. Yamazaki and Matsuoka got down as far as the 6,300 m point on the same day.

On July 12, at 4・00 a.m., in the favorable weather condition of the early morning, they started descending. By afternoon, though, the blinding snowstorm made it very difficult for them to find their way down. They persevered, but by 8:00 p.m., they were compelled to bivouac on Snow Peak (6,000 m), with scarce food and fuel.

From July 13 through 16, the severe snowstorm kept them from going out of the tent. During this period, they ate nothing since they wanted to keep their small supply of food for the long descent ahead of them. They had only a little water which they got by melting snow a cigarette lighter. On the 15, a strong wind made a 5-centimeter tear in the tent, through which snow was blown in, wetting their sleeping bags.

On July 17, the weather finally improved. In spite of their wish to move early in the morning while the weather was good, they felt too cold to go out. Then, finally, with their gear all on, they ate three cookies each, drank some water, and started from the tent at 10:00 a.m., hoping to get to the 5,200 m spot where they had deposited their food and fuel. Though they climbed down to the 5,500-meter spot through the ice and snow wall, they could not go any farther. At 8:00 p.m., they had to stay there overnight.

On July 18, they walked through the very unstable and dangerous area with greatest care from 4:00 a.m. through to 8:00 p.m., when they got down to the 5,200 m spot where they had expected to find the deposited food and fuel.

Devastatingly, they could not find the food and fuel they so desperately needed. They were beneath the layer of fallen serac.

On July 19, they started out at 4:00 a.m. At around 10:00 a.m. they managed to get to the place with fixed ropes. Shortly after noon, a little above Advance Base, Yamazaki, who was walking ahead of Matsuoka, was met by one of the porters who came up with some food. Each of them was delighted to get a one-liter bottle of orange juice and two bars of chocolate. In the evening, they modestly celebrated their successful ascent with some porridge and Chinese noodle soup.

On the morning of July 20, Yamazaki began to feel very sick. He complained of a violent stomachache. On the following day, his condition worsened. Matsuoka requested the liaison officer to get helicopter evacuation for Yamazaki. However, at 11:00 p.m. at Advance Base Camp, Yamazaki breathed his last breath, before the arrival of the helicopter. His body was carried down to Islamabad to be met by his family and friends, and then, on July 30, cremated in thee open air.

The cause of his death cannot be specified. Most probably it is not high altitude sickness, but rather may be a result of stress caused by a sudden worsening condition of the digestive organ, or acute appendicitis. May his soul rest in peace.

The Ultar II was never climbed again.

For More Read  “Ultimate Ultar II (7388m) and the Japanese Tragedy- I”

Mountain Ranges of Pakistan

Pakistan is host to three of the world’s biggest and most spectacular mountain ranges, the Himalaya, the Karakoram and the Hindukush. The convergence of these magnificent ranges, at the confluence of Indus and Gilgit rivers near Jaglot -a small town 40 Km south of Gilgit city-, create a unique geographical feature on earth.

These magnificent mountain ranges are also home to one of the densest collection of highest and most precipitous mountain peaks in the world. These include five, out of the total fourteen, above 8000 meter high peaks in the world, including the second highest mountain peak -the PakPeak K-2 (8611m), PakPeak Gasherbrum 1, PakPeak Gasherbrum 2, PakPeak Broad Peak and PakPeak Nanga Parbat. Nevertheless these mountain ranges also boast more than 100 peaks above 7000 meters and around 700 peaks above 6000 meters.

1. Himalayas (Western) Mountain Range

The world’s largest mountain range Himalayas is about 2400 km long and it runs through Nepal, Bhutan, China, India and Astore District in Gilgit Baltistan, Pakistan. The Western Himalayan Range is situated in Kashmir valley and Northern Pakistan, to the south and east of Indus River, and is dominated by Nanga Parbat massif. World’s ninth highest and the “killer” mountain Nanga Parbat is the western most anchor of the western Himalayas.

2. Karakoram Range
The Karakoram Range covers the borders between Pakistan, India and China, in the regions of Gilgit-Baltistan (Pakistan), Ladakh (India), and Xinjiang region, (China). The range is about 500 km (311 mile) in length, and is bounded on the northeast by the edge of the Tibetan Plateau, and on the north by the Pamir Mountains. The southern boundary of the Karakoram is formed, west to east, by the Gilgit, Indus, and Shyok Rivers, which separate the range from the northwestern end of the Himalaya range. Karakoram range has more than 60 peaks which are above 7,000 metres (22,960 ft). This range includes K2, which is the second highest peak of the world standing at 8,611 metres (28,251 ft). A European team first attempted to climb K2 in 1856. A member of this team, Thomas Montgomerie, named this peak “K2” as it was the second in order in the Karakoram range. The other five peaks are named as K1 (Masherbrum), K3 (Broad Peak), K4 (Gasherbrum II) and K5 (Gasherbrum I). The Siachen Glacier at 70 km and the Biafo Glacier at 63 km rank as the world’s second and third longest glaciers outside the polar regions. The range has always been one of the most liked mountain range among the mountaineers and trekkers from around the world due to its scenery, its lakes and surroundings .
The main karakorum range is the continental divide of southern Asia. Rivers to the south flow into the Arabian Sea. Rivers to the north flow to the Yellow Sea.

3. Hindu Kush Range
The 966 km long Hindukus Mountain Range located iIn the north-west of Pakistan straddles both Afghanistan and Pakistan. Most parts of the high Hindu Kush range (Eastern Hindu Kush range), are located in northern Pakistan and Afghanistan. This range is also present in Ghizar, Yasin Valley, and Ishkoman in Pakistans Northern Areas. PakPeak Tirich Mir (7,690 metres or 25,230 feet)., located in Chitral (25,289 ft) is the highest point in the Hindu Kush range. Noshaq located at Pak Afghan border is second highest peak of HinduKush Range and is considered highest peak of Afghanistan.
The Hindukush rises South West of Pamirs. It is considered to extend from Wakhjir pass at the junctions of the Pamirs and Karakoram to Khawak pass North of Kabul. Its first region extends from Wakhjir pass separating Hunza from Wakhan. Its second region lies beyond Dorah pass in Afghanistan. The third region lies in Pakistan and extends into Swat and Kohistan areas. On the East it is separated from Karakoram by Mighty Indus River.

4. Sulaiman Mountain Range
The Sulaiman Mountains are located in northern Balochistan and Zabul province of Afghanistan. It is present at the border of the Indian Subcontinent and the Iranian Plateau and west of the Indus River. Takht-e-Sulaiman, meaning Solomon’s Throne with a height of 3,487 m (11,437 feet) in Balochistan is the highest peak of Sulaiman Mountains.Suleiman Range is Pakistan’s forth major mountain range. It emerges in the south western region of the country, mostly covering Baluchistan Province. However the mountain range is quite different in character from the Northern Mountains as it is less precipitous and with medium elevations.

5. Salt Range
In Punjab there is a hill system called as ‘The Salt Range’. It gets its name from the extensive rock salt deposits present in the area. This range lies across the northern province of Punjab, from the Jhelum River to the Indus. The famous salt mines of Khewra, Mayo, Warcha and Kalabagh are present in ‘The Salt Range’.

6. Safed Koh (The White Mountain Range)
The Safed Koh or the White Mountain range lies at the Pakistan Afghanistan border. It ranges up to 4,761 metres (15,620 ft) above sea-level.

7. Kirthar Mountain Range
Kirthar Mountains are located in Sindh and Balochistan. The range extends southward for nearly 300km from the Mula River (Balochistan) to Cape Muari (west of Karachi) on the Arabian Sea. The maximum altitude of the Kirthar range that is present in Sindh is almost 7,056 feet above sea-level, which makes it Sindh’s highest peak. This range is present a few miles north-west of the Gorakh Hill Station (5,688 feet.)

8. Hindu Raj Range
The Hindu Raj is a subsidiary range of Hindu Kush located between the Hindu Kush and the Karakoram Ranges.
PakPeak Koyo Zom 6872 (22,546 ft) is its highest peak.of Hindu Raj Range.It is called as Mont Blanc of Pakistan and is located on the boundry of provinces of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa and Gilgit-Baltistan.
PakPeak Falaksher is the second highest peak of Hindu Raj. It lies south of Gilgit and sout-east of Chitral, between the River Ushu and Indus.

The other notebale Pakistani mountain Ranges include
9. Spin Ghar Mountains with PakPeak Sikaram (4,761 m or 15,620 feet)
10. Margalla Hills with PakPeak Tilla Charouni (1604 m or 5263 feet.) as its highest peak.
11. Toba Kakar Range
12. Makran Range

Find out more about “17 Pak Peaks of Hindu Kush ” or explore about “Pakistan’s Ultimate Confusion with “K”.

 

17 Pak Peaks of Hindu Kush

The 966 km long Hindukush Mountain Range located in the north-west of Pakistan overlaps both Afghanistan and Pakistan. Most parts of the Hindu Kush range (Eastern Hindu Kush range), are located in Northern Pakistan , Afghanistan. This range is also present in Ghizar, Yasin Valley, and Ishkoman in Pakistan’s s Northern Areas.

In his travel memoirs about India, the 14th century Moroccan traveller Muhammad Ibn Battuta mentioned crossing into India via the mountain passes of the Hindu Kush.He wrote

After this I proceeded to the city of Barwan, in the road to which is a high mountain, covered with snow and exceedingly cold; they call it the Hindu Kush, that is Hindu-slayer, because most of the slaves brought thither from India die on account of the intenseness of the cold.

               Ibn Batutta, Chapter XIII, Rihla – Khorasan

The Hindukush rises South West of Pamirs. It is considered to extend from Wakhjir pass at the junctions of the Pamirs and Karakoram to Khawak pass North of Kabul. Its first region extends from Wakhjir pass separating Hunza from Wakhan. Its second region lies beyond Dorah pass in Afghanistan. The third region lies in Pakistan and extends into Swat and Kohistan areas. On the East it is separated from Karakoram by Mighty Indus River.
PakPeak Tirich Mir (7708) metres or 25,230 feet)., located in Chitral (25,289 ft) is the highest point in the Hindu Kush range. PakPeak Noshaq (7492m) located at Pak Afghan border is second highest peak of Hindu Kush Range and is considered highest peak of Afghanistan.
Few of the famous PakPeaks of Hindu Kush Range are following.

 

No.

Names Height (m)

Location

1 PakPeak Tirich Mir 7,708m Chitral
2 PakPeak Noshaq 7,492 m  Pak Afghan border
3 PakPeak Udren Zom (North) 7,108 m Chitral
4 PakPeak Akher Chhish 7,020 m Chitral
5 PakPeak Koyo Zom 6,871 m Pechus Glacier,Kishmanja
6 PakPeak Thui I 6,660 m Ponarillo Glacier, Kishmanja
7 PakPeak Gul Lasht Zom 6,657 m Lutkho Valley
8. PakPeak Buni Zom 6,550 m Shishi & Golen Valleys
9. PakPeak Thui II 6,523 m Shetor Glacier, Thui Pass
10 PakPeak Ghamubar I 6,518 m Ghamubar Glacier , Shetor Glacier, Thui Pass
11. PakPeak  Ghamubar II 6,432 m Ghamubar Glacier, Darkot
12. PakPeak Ghuchhar Sar 6,249 m Buni Zom group
13. PakPeak Garmush 6,244 m Garmush Glacier, Darkot
14. PakPeak Chikar Zom 6,110 m Chatebori Glacier, Darkot Pass
15. PakPeak Falakser 5,918 m Ushu valley, Swat-kohistan
16. PakPeak Mankial 5,726 m Swat Valley
17. PakPeak Kurkun 4,890 m

 

You can explore more about the ” Hind Kush’s Second Highest PakPeak Noshaq ” located at the Pak-Afghan Border.

Alternatively find out about  ” Pakistan’s Ultimate Confusion with “K”.

Pakistan’s “K” Konfusion

Why K2? What is “K” and What is “2”. Here is the answer to the Pakistan’s ultimate confusion with “K”.

In 1850s the Great Trigonometric Survey was carried out by British Empire to demarcate its territories. British surveyor T.G. Montgomerie as part of survey team named a distant high peak as “K2” as it was the second in order in the Karakoram range. The “K” denotes the mountain range — Karakoram — and the “2” denote that it is the second recorded peak. The other seven PakPeaks with prefix  “K” in the numerical order are as following.

Sketch by Thomas Montgomeriemade during his 1852 Karakoram exploration depicting K1 and K2. (Source : Wikipedia)

1. K1- Masherbrum 
PakPeak K1 commonly called as Masherbrum is located in the Ghanche District, Gilgit Baltistan of Pakistan. At 7,821 metres (25,659 ft) it is the 22nd highest mountain in the world and the 9th highest in Pakistan. It was the first officially mapped peak in the Karakoram mountain range. The meaning of the name “Masherbrum” is not entirely clear. It may come from mashadar (muzzle-loading gun) plus brum(mountain), from the resemblance of the double summit to an old muzzle-loader. It may also come from masha (queen or lady), giving “queen of peaks.”

2. K2 Godwin Austen
Standing at 8611m, Chogori also called as K2 or Godwin Austin Peak is part of Karakoram Range.K2 due to its consistently steep pyramid, dropping quickly in almost all directions and difficulty of ascent is known to have one of the highest fatality rate.. Locally the term 2 in its name is associated with the killing of at least two persons per year on average.

3. K3 Broad Peak
K3 or the Broad Peak is a 8,051m (26,414 ft) mountain peak. As the fourth highest Pak Peak it ranks number 12 in the world. The nearest peaks are PakPeak Gasherbrum IV, Marble Peak, PakPeak Angel sur ,PakPeak Gasherbrum III, K2, and Gasherbrum II.

4. K4 Gasherbrum II
Gasherbrum II is a 26,362 ft / 8,035 m mountain peak in the Karakoram Range loctaed on the border of Xinjiang, China and Gilgit Baltistan Pakistan. Based on Pak Peaks data it ranks as the fifth Pak Peak and 13 th in the world. The nearby peaks include Gasherbrum III, Gasherbrum II East, Gasherbrum IV, Gasherbrum I, Broad Peak, and Baltoro Kangri.

5. K5 Gasherbrum I
Gasherbrum I or K5 is also called as Hidden Peak due to its remoteness.It is located on the Pakistan-China border in Gilgit-Baltistan region. It is the third highest Pak Peak and ranked 11th in the world. As a part of the Gasherbrum massif, it is located in the Karakoram region of the Himalaya.

6. K6 Baltistan Peak

As a part of karakorum Range. K6 commonly called as Baltistan Peak I currently ranked as PakPeak100. It is category B2 (7000-74999m) PakPeak with an altitude of 7281 m (23888).Its coordinate are 35°26’51.09″ and 76°33’7.37″.
The Wikipedia link is https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/K6_(mountain)

7. K7

PakPeak K7 (6934m/22749 ft) is a category C Peak ( 6000-6999m) currently ranked as PakPeak186. It is part of Karkorum Mountain Range and located in Hushue Valley.
More info on http://www.baltistanadventure.com/k-7-6935m/

8. K12

PakPeak K 12 (7469m/24504 ft ) is a Cat B2 (7000-7499m) peak located in Karakorum Mountain Range .It is currently ranked as PakPeak45. It is part of Soltoro and Gaunche District in Gilgit Baltistan.With a prominence of 1978 m its geographic coordinates are 35°19′16.8″N and 376°59′07.3″E.
For More info https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/K12_(mountain)?oldformat=true

And confusion do not end here.Where are K9,K10 and K11 ?
If found please lets us know.

Pakistan’s K2 Club

The world’s Highest  Mount Everest has been climbed so far by only four climbers from Pakistan out of as many as about 5000 climbers. On the contrary ,on much more challenging K2 , as of 2014 ,  16 Pakistanis have reached the summit.
Here are the Pakistani  heroes of K2.

HONOUR ROLL – PAKISTANI K2 CLIMBERS
Ashraf Aman
7 August 1977
Japan-Pakistan Joint Expedition
Nazir Sabir
7 August 1981
Japan-Pakistan Joint Expedition
Rajab Shah
7 July 1995
International Expedition
Mehrban Shah
Asad Khan
27 July 2004
Swiss-Italian Expedition
Nisar Hussain
27 July 2004
Chinese Expedition
Mohammad Hussain
Shaheen Baig
28 July 2004
International Expedition
Mohammad Ali
Mehrban Karim (Late)
1 August 2008
International Expedition
Ali Durrani
26 July 2014
K2 2014 Pakistan Expedition
Ali Rozi
Hasan Jan
Mohammad Sadiq
Ghulam Mehdi
Rehmatullah Baig