Gilgit and Nanga Parbat Mountain of Canada

Located faraway from beautiful Pakistani city of Gilgit and nearby huge Nanga Parbat Massive, there in the westren hemisphere on the border of Alberta and British Columbia in Canada lies Gilgit Mountain (3122m) and Nanga Parbat Mountain (3240m). Both of these closely located peaks (not PakPeaks!) are on the continental divide at the southern edge of the Freshfield Icefield; upper Mummery Glacier, Banff Park, Alberta and British Columbia border. Major headwaters are Saskatchewan & Columbia rivers. Gilgit Mountain (3122m) It was named by J. Norman Collie in 1898. The name is related to the fact that Mummery’s expedition to PakPeak Nanga Parbat in 1896 last saw civilization at Gilgit. The Gilgit mountain (of Canada)  was first ascended in 1922 by Howard Palmer, J. Monroe Thorington, guided by Edward Feuz jr (Journal reference AJ 34-395, CAJ 13-67.) Nanga Parbat Mountain  (3240 m) This peak was named by Norman Collie after PakPeak Nanga Parbat in the Himalaya upon which he had climbed in 1895. Norman Collie and Mummery, together with Geoffery Hastings, climbed together in the Alps in 1894 and the following year in the Himalaya. They had been climbing for over a month on August 23rd when Mummery set out with two “Ghurkhas,” Ragobir and Gomar Singh, to cross Diama Pass near PakPeak Nanga Parbat and perhaps make another attempt at the summit which had eluded the party. Collie seems to have been suffering from the many weeks at altitude and according to a letter written by Mummery, “was not keen on it.” Mummery and the Ghurkhas were never seen again. It was not until September 13th that Collie and Hastings set out on a three day trip to... read more

Some Minor PakPeaks Groups

KAMPIRE DIOR GROUP Kampire Dior (M) 7168-M / 23547 F Karambar Gl, Yash Kuk Yaz Gl, Batura Gl, Pamri Sar 7106-M / 23018 F  Batura Gl, Yash Kuk Yaz Gl  Gilgit Baltistan, Pakistan EAST OF HUSHE VALLEY GROUP 38 K-6 (W) 7100 Link Sar 7041 Link Sar (N) 7000 K-7 6934 Un named Peak 6858 Un named Peak 6568 Kapura 6544 Un named Peak 6500 Changi 6500 Drafey Khar (Drifka) 6444 Un named Peak 6400 Un named Peak 6325 EAST OF THALLE VALLEY GROUP Honboro 6459 Un named Peak 6100 Un named Peak 6000 CHOGO LUNGMA GROUP Spantik 7027 MANGO GUSOR GROUP Mango Gusor 6288 KHOSER GUNGE GROUP Khoser Gunge 6401 KHURDOPIN GROUP Lakpe Lawo Brakk 6593 DANSAM GROUP  Dansam 6666/6345 Un named Peak 6450 CROWN GROUP Crown 7295-M / 23934 F , Insgaiti Gl, North Crown glacier, Gilgit Baltistan, Pakistan        ... read more

The Samina Story – Pakistan’s First Women who reached Everest

Samina Khayal Baig  is a Pakistani high-altitude mountaineer. She is the only Pakistani woman and the third Pakistani to climb Mount Everest. She is also the youngest Muslim woman to climb Everest, having done so at the age of 21. Samina is also the first Pakistani woman and the first Muslim to climb the seven summits.She was the first to climb the peak Chashkin Sar (above 6,000 meters) in Pakistan in 2010, which was later renamed Samina Peak after her.She reached the summit of ‘Koh-i-Brobar’ (‘Mount Equality’) in 2011.An attempt at the seven kilometre high Spantik Peak ended in failure for Baig, due to adverse weather conditions. Samina Baig became the first Pakistani woman and the third Pakistani to climb Mount Everest on 19 May 2013.She was joined by Indian twin girls Tashi and Nungshi Malik in climbing Mount Everest and they together perched national flags of India and Pakistan side-by-side atop the peak,to spread a message of Indo-Pakistani friendship and peace. In an interview with her brother before the ascent; Baig also stated that the expedition was a demonstration of gender equality. Samina’s Brother Mirza Ali, approximately 248m short from the summit of Everest, let his sister go to the summit on her own without his support ,to give message of Women empowerment in... read more

Amir Mehdi – The man who was Betrayed on K2

Amir Mehdi was a High Altitude Porter (HAP) and climber from Hassnabad, Hunza, Pakistan. He is known for bivouacking at 8100m during 1954 Italian Expedition to K2. Mehdi was born in 1933. He was a participant of 1953 German Expedition to Nanga Parbat. Mehdi returned down from Camp IV due to health issues. Hermann Buhl made first ascent of Nanga Parbat. Next year, it were efforts of Walter Bonatti and Amir Mehdi that made first ascent of K2 possible. Both of them shifted bottled oxygen directly from Camp VII to Camp IX, late in the night. To their surprise Camp IX was not present at it’s agreed spot. Lino Lacedelli and Achille Compagnoni asked them to go down. Already exhausted, descend to lower camp in dark wasn’t possible. Walter Bonatti and Amir Mehdi bivouacked at 8100m in freezing cold. Mehdi descended next morning, severely frostbitten and had to undergo several surgeries. He lost ten fingers and couldn’t climb again.He was first Pakistani mountaineer to reach a height above 8000m. Mehdi died in early... read more

PakPeaks – Hall of Fame

Mehrban Shah Nisar Hussain Sadpara Abdul ‘Little’ Karim Abdul Jabbar Bhatti Prof. Rahat Ali Manzoor Hussain Momin Hamid Muhammad Hussain Mehrban Karim Muhammad Sher Khan Mirza Mohammad Atta-ul-haq Muhammad Ullah Aziz Baig Rozi Ali Qudrat Ali Amirrudin Shah Sarwar Ali Raza Ali Hassan Jan Muhammad Ali Qurban Muhammad Muhammad Ali Sadpara Amin Ullah Ghulam Mehdi Sultan Ullah Baig Ghulam Hassan Fayyaz Hussain Zahid Mahmood Jawad Ahmad Pirzada Mohammad Fakhar ul Haq Mohammad Yousaf Mohammad Ali II Nabi Raza Mohammad Ali III Hashil Shah Subz Ali Wahab Ali Shah Sajjad Ullah Baig Shakoor Ali Ghulam Hussain Farzan Khan Ali Musa Rehmat Ullah Quraishi Ezat Ullah Baig Muhammad Ibrahim Qurban Mohammad Saeed Ahmad Jahan Baig Ali Muhammad Jungjupa Sarwar Khan Ghulam Rasool Nazir Ahmad Asghar Hussain Fida Hussain Muhammad Sadiq Sadpara Muhammad Iqbal Iqbal Parwana Kazim Ali Sher Sadpara Farhad Baig Saad Mohamed Navid Iqbal Zahid Rajpoot Mirza Ali Karim Hayat Safdar Karim Naseer Ud-Din Ali Durrani Rahmat Ullah Baig Ghulam Mehdi Wajhat Malik... read more

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