First conquered on 29 May 1953 by the New Zealander Sir Edmund Hillary and Nepal’s Tenzing Norgay, Mount Everest is every mountaineers ultimate dream.
As of Dec 2016 there have been 7,646 total summits by 4,469 different climbers on Mount Everest. So far over 290 people have died trying to climb it.
As of June 2017, there have been only five Pakistani expeditions to Everest.Four of them have been successful to achieve this great feat of mountaineering.
The first ever Pakistani attempt to Mount Everest was a joint venture of Alpine Club of Pakistan (ACP) and China Tibet Mountaineering Association organized to celebrate Golden Jubilee of Pakistan’s independence (1947-1997).Under the leadership of Pakistan’s legendary mountaineer Nazir Sabir, ten men team attempted Northeast ridge (Tibet/China Side) route. The team consisted of Nazir Sabir, Col. Sher Khan, Rajab Shah, Meherban Shah, Capt. M. Iqbal, Capt. Dr. Safiullah, M. Ibrahim, Rozi Ali, M. Sarwar and Ghulam Hassan.They made three attempts to reach the summit. In one of the attempts, they were less than 300m short of summit, when poor visibility and strong wind forced them to retreat.Mission remained unsuccessful.
Nazir Sabir – Mountain Madness Everest Expedition – 17 May 2000
In year 2000, Pakistan’s famous mountaineer Nazir Sabir joined Mountain Madness, a US Based climbing company’s Expedition to Mount Everest.The eight members international team was led by American lady Christine Feld Boskoff and climbed the mountain from Nepalese side (Southeast Ridge route). On the morning of 17th May 2000 Nazir Sabir became the first ever Pakistani to put his foot on top of Everest.He was followed by Canadian Benjamin Webster and four Sherpas.
Hassan Sadpapar – Pakistan Everest Expedition – 12 May 2011
Almost a decade later after Nazir Sabir’s successful Everest attempt, an expedition Funded by Govt of Pakistan and facilitated by Alpine Club of Pakistan took place in 2011.
Hassan Sadpara who had previously climbed five 8000m peaks was the lead climber while his brother Muhammad Sadiq joined him for support at Base Camp.Hassan along other four member team left for the base camp on 3rd of April 2011. He left Base Camp for summit on 10th May. His plan was to reach the top without using bottled oxygen. Unfortunately, the weather deteriorated above C4 and he had to breathe the artificial oxygen. On Monday 12 May 2011 , 0630am PST he hoisted Pakistani flag on top with Pride. The expedition comprised of Muhammad Ali Changezi, who was also the expedition leader, along with Assistant Manager and support member Ghulam Muhammad Faisal and climbers Hassan Sadpara and Muhammad Sadiq. Summit was done via south face. He became the first Pakistani to have climbed six eight-thousanders including Everest (8848m) besides PakPeak K2 (8611m), PakPeak Gasherbrum I (8080m), #PakPeak Gasherbrum II (8034m), PakPeak Nanga Parbat (8126 m) and PakPeak Broad (8051m). He is also credited for summiting five of the eight-thousanders without using supplemental oxygen. Contrary to initial reports, Hassan Sadpara clarified that he used supplemental oxygen during his Everest ascent due to bad weather. He died due to cancer on 21 November 2016 in Rawalpindi.
Samina Khayal Baig – Gender Equality Expedition- 19 May 2013
Samina Khayal Baig hailing from Shimshal, Pakistan was part of Gender Equality Expedition to Mount Everest in 2013. On May 19th, 2013 at the age of 21 Samina Baig reached the top, to become first Pakistani female to climb Everest.She became the only Pakistani woman and the third Pakistani to climb Mount Everest. She is also the youngest Muslim woman to climb Everest.The expedition to the summit took 48 days, the team traversed the South Col pass in eight hours, with the mountaineers reaching their goal on the sixtieth anniversary of Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing’s first successful conquest of Everest.A documentary film Beyond the Heights was also made on her expedition to Mount Everest.
Col (Retd) – Abdul Jabbar Bhatti – 21 May 2017
A doctor and a retd offcer from esteemed Special Services Group of Pakistan Army, Lt Col Abdual Jabbar Bhatti at 1430 local time on 21 May 2017 became fourth Pakistani to summit world’s highest peak Mount Everest. He is an accomplished mountaineer and a past recipient of the President’s Pride of Performance award and the Tamgha-i-Basalat (Medal of Good Conduct) by the government of Pakistan.In the past, Dr Bhatti successfully summited PakPeak Broad (8,051 m high) in 1985; PakPeak Gasherbrum 2 (8,035m) in 1986 and PakPeak Spantik (7,027m) in 2012.He is the first Pakistani mountaineers to reach Everest who do not belong to the mountainous region of Gilgit-Baltistan. It took Bhatti one and half months to complete the dream expedition. Bhatti partially financed his Rs 5 million trip with help from a private donor.
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